This is the trip I send people on when they tell me they want to feel something in Ethiopia, not just see it. We fly from Addis Ababa into Mekelle, then drive out to the Gheralta Mountains, where the very first stop is Abune Abraram at Debre Tsion — a cave church carved into the rock in the 6th century AD, still holding its ceremonial goatskin fan parchment and its old biblical paintings. We picnic at a viewpoint over the highlands, then start walking.
From there it's on foot for most of the trip. On day two we trek past traditional Tigrayan homes to Mariam Papasite, known for its wall paintings, where you'll get the chance to sit with local families and see how life is lived up here. Then we climb on to the basecamp at Mariam Korkor, timed so you're there for one of the best sunsets — and sunrises — you'll see in Ethiopia. My cook and full camping equipment come with us, so all you have to think about is the walking.
Day three is the heart of it. We visit the rock-hewn churches of Mariam Korkor and Daniel Korkor, then climb the cliff face to Abune Yemata Guh, the church known as the "Church in the Sky." It's not a walk in — it's a real climb, hand over hand up bare rock — and what's waiting at the top, dome paintings and views that drop away on every side, is one of the most extraordinary things I know of in this country. We come back down for a picnic lunch, then drive to Mekelle or Axum for a proper bed and a hot shower.
On the last morning, there's no rush. If we've stayed in Mekelle, we can visit Yohannes IV's Palace and wander the market; if we're in Axum, I like to build in a short city tour before your afternoon flight home to Addis Ababa.
This trip is for travelers who want Ethiopia's rock-hewn church heritage without the crowds of Lalibela — and who don't mind sleeping in a tent under a very big sky to get there. It's four days, but it stays with you a lot longer than that.
A curated list of the most popular travel packages based on different destinations.